Mode SixtyFive (2024) Keyboard Build

Starting a new job also meant an opportunity to refresh the home office, and as part of that I decided to finally undertake a full keyboard build. I’d assembled a few in the past, but that mostly involved putting in switches and keycaps on a mostly-built case.

I had wanted a Mode SixtyFive for a while, but they discontinued the original version a couple of years ago. The updated version incorporates the lattice block mounting system from their Envoy and Sonnet models, in addition to a new bottom weight/badge, and a smaller magnetic accent piece. The overall look is clean and minimal. For my configuration I went with a polycarbonate top and bottom case, and copper for the weight and accent.

Stability First #

Before I started the main build I knew I would have to assemble and lube my stabilizers. My SixtyFive shipped with Durock V2 screw-in stabilizers, and I followed Taeha Type’s tutorial. I had never done this before, and I spent a frustrating minute trying to figure out how to snap the stabilizer wire into the plastic housing—turns out that “top hole” can mean either of two depending on how you’re holding the housing.

I found the stabilizer process a bit annoying (I hate getting anything sticky or greasy on my hands) but it definitely went a long way towards making the keyboard sound good.

Case Work #

Once the stabs were prepped I set them aside and assembled the case, inserting the weight and badge. You can choose the style of weight from a variety of materials, including aluminum, brass, stainless steel, and (my choice) copper. The badge will match the material of your case bottom—in my configuration that meant polycarbonate. It looks ok but I think I would have preferred that the badge match the weight instead of the bottom.

PCB, Plate, and Switches #

Assembling the PCB,¹ plate, and switches took up the most time of the whole process—mostly because the polycarbonate plate I selected is very soft and it took a lot of time to confirm that the switches were seated properly in the plate.

I installed Gateron X switches that I had on hand, except for the Caps Lock and Mute macro button where I used Kailh Box Whites for distinct, clicky feedback.

Block Party #

You can choose from four different lattice block options (in addtion to a top mount one)—I tried the Black Lattice at first before switching to the softer Half Lattice.

And then…a wait, because I was still deciding what keycaps to get.

Copper and Green #

I’ve been on a copper and green kick of late, so I ordered two different green-themed keycap sets to try: Drop’s DCX Emerald, and MT3 Jasmine.²

DCX Emerald #

I really like the look of this set—it’s clean, and feels good under the fingers. I did have a few issues with the alignment of the left Tab and Caps Lock keys—they both sat with a bit of an angle that caused the alignment to look off. I think it’s partly due to the Gateron switches having only three mounting pins, instead of the five that the PCB accepts.

MT3 Jasmine #

As much as I liked the look of DCX Emerald, I’m not so sure I’m keeping the set after trying the MT3 Jasmine caps. There’s something about the scooped profile of the MT3 keycaps that’s so fun, and makes the keyboard look less like a stock model.

With this set I had issues with the alignment of the \ and Return keys—they were rubbing up against each other. I swapped in five-pin Boba U4T switches I had lying around and that made things better, so I think ultimately I’m going to have to grab a set of five-pin linears to use with this board.

Snapping into place #

Finally, the accent—it magnetically attaches onto the back of the case with a satisfying thunk.

I have to hand it to Mode—the accent is a nice detail and I am already considering getting one of the wooden variants so I can switch it up in the future.

Underglow #

I don’t think I’ll use this regularly, but for the RGB heads there is underglow on this board with many different modes, including this multi-color breathing style:

Sound/Feel #

How do I feel about the finished board? It certainly looks nice. Is it worth the high premium over something like my Bakeneko? That’s a tough question. It’s going to depend a lot on the choices you make for mounting style, switches, and keycaps—right now I think I prefer the sound and feel of the Bakeneko, but most of that may be down to the switches.

Overall the most valuable part of the process was the build experience itself, even more than the final result—it demystified a lot of the aspects of the hobby that I’d previously avoided.

For more photos/videos from the build visit Flickr.